🪵 Plywood Types & Grades Explained — CDX, ACX, BCX, Marine & More
Two letters and a glue rating decide what a sheet is for: the face grade, the back grade, and whether the adhesive survives water. Here is every letter, every specialized type, the species behind the face veneer — and a pick-the-sheet matrix that turns your project into a rack aisle.
Pick the sheet: what to buy for four common projects
Choose the project type and the matrix narrows to the panels that actually belong there — with the thickness each job normally runs. The tables that follow explain the letters behind every recommendation.
| Buy this | For | Typical thickness |
|---|---|---|
| Marine ply (void-free core)Default | Boat hulls, below-waterline work | 3/8″–3/4″ |
| Pressure-treated sheathing | Ground contact, shed floors, deck frames | 3/4″ |
| Exterior-grade CDX, sealed edges | Shed walls & roofs, soffits (painted or covered) | 7/16″–5/8″ |
| MDO overlay | Painted exterior signs & facades | 1/2″ |
Recommendations are typical North American retail practice, not project engineering: structural panels follow span ratings and local code, and wet-area work follows the finish system's specification.
What plywood is — and how the plies are made
Plywood is an odd number of thin veneers — usually 1/16″ to 1/8″ each — glued with their grain directions alternating 90° from layer to layer. The mill harvests logs, steam-conditions them, and rotates each log against a long blade that peels a continuous veneer ribbon, the way a roll of tape unwinds. The ribbons are clipped into sheets, dried to target moisture, and stacked face core back with adhesive between layers; a hot press cures the glue under hundreds of pounds per square inch, and the finished panel is trimmed, sanded or overlaid depending on its grade.
That cross-lamination is not a construction detail — it is the product. Solid wood shrinks and swells roughly 25× more across the grain than along it, which is why a wide solid board cups with every season. Alternating plies cancel that movement in both directions, so a plywood sheet stays flat, holds screws in its edges as well as its face (each edge cuts across grain somewhere), and spreads a load in two axes. Every panel property below — grade, span rating, type — is a variation on that same cross-banded core.
The grade letters: N, A, B, C, D
Grades describe the two outer veneers only — the core is judged by the panel's standard, not its letter pair. Face grade first, back grade second: "A2" means an A face over a 2 (interior-grade) back; "CDX" means C face, D back, exterior-rated glue. Read the pair and the panel's job is usually obvious.
| Grade | What the face allows | Finish level | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| N | Smooth, natural — no knots, only shims/synthetic repairs | Stain or natural finish | Cabinet faces, furniture where grain shows |
| A | Smooth, paintable — tight repairs allowed | Paint or clear coat | Visible cabinet interiors, painted furniture |
| B | Solid surface — tight knots and 'football' plugs permitted | Paint, some stain | Sanded panels, shelving with exposed faces |
| C | Knotholes to 1″, small splits, plugged defects | Paint only (rough) | Hidden faces — sheathing backs, drawer parts |
| C-Plugged | Improved C — plugged knotholes, sanded | Paint | Underlayment, soffits |
| D | Knotholes to 2½″, voids permitted | Not for visible faces | Sheathing, rough construction |
Face and back veneer grading per APA/PS 1 (Voluntary Product Standard for construction and industrial plywood). Bond classification — exterior, Exposure 1, Exposure 2, interior — is stamped separately from the letters and governs moisture tolerance of the glue line.
💡 Tip — the two-letter strategy: go one grade up on the face the room sees and one grade down everywhere it never will. A painted cabinet needs A on doors and fronts, C on the inside — the same carcass in ACX throughout costs roughly 30–40% more than a split-grade build for a difference nobody can see.
❌ Don't: read the X in CDX as "waterproof." X marks exterior glue, not exterior service. CDX sheathing survives a construction season of rain because the plies hold together — but the raw edges swell, the faces check, and the panel was never intended to be a finished surface. Anything visible outdoors gets sealed and painted, or it gets a genuinely weather-rated panel.
Reading the edge stamp: span ratings and thickness marks
Structural panels carry a stamp more informative than their price tag: span rating, bond classification, actual thickness, and mill. The span rating is two numbers — roof support spacing over floor joist spacing, both in inches. The stamps the calculators on this site assume are:
| Stamp | Means | Typical panel |
|---|---|---|
| 32/16 | Max rafter spacing 32″ o.c., max joist spacing 16″ o.c. | 5/8″ & 23/32″ sheathing/T&G |
| 48/24 | Rafters to 48″ o.c., joists to 24″ o.c. | 23/32″–1-1/8″ Sturd-I-Floor |
| 24/16 | Rafters to 24″, joists to 16″ | 7/16″ & 1/2″ sheathing |
| 23/32 | Actual thickness stamp — the metric-true dressed size behind '3/4-inch' | Subfloor & roof panels |
The thickness line is where the label and the tape disagree — "3/4-inch" panels are stamped 23/32, "1/2-inch" runs 15/32, "5/8-inch" runs 19/32. Subfloor, screw lengths and freight weights all track the stamped number, not the shelf name. The subfloor calculator builds its T&G thickness table from the stamped sizes, and the span calculator reports the APA span rating a panel needs to carry your support spacing.
Specialized types: from sheathing to film-faced
Beyond the generic sanded panels, a dozen engineered variants earn rack space by solving one problem precisely. The core distinction to keep straight: grade describes the face veneers, type describes the construction — overlay, treatment, core or coating.
| Type | Bond | Built for | Key detail |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sheathing (CDX) | Exterior | Wall & roof sheathing, subfloor | The job-site workhorse — rough faces, exterior glue, never meant to be seen |
| Sanded (ACX/BCX) | Exterior | Painted projects, cabinet interiors | One face sanded smooth; ACX for paint-grade visible work |
| Tongue & groove | Exposure 1 | Subfloor & roof decking | Interlocking edges share load between sheets; Sturd-I-Floor is the APA name |
| Marine | Exterior (fully waterproof) | Boats, exterior doors, wet areas | Defined by void-free core and verified adhesive, not by a waterproof coating — it still needs sealing |
| MDO / Sign ply | Exterior | Signs, painted exteriors | Paints like glass; the overlay seals the grain |
| Phenolic / film-faced | Exterior | Concrete forms, jigs, work surfaces | Black or brown film face, releases concrete, wipes clean |
| UV / prefinished | Interior/Exposure | Cabinet interiors, closet lining | Factory finish skips the topcoating step |
| Anti-slip / hex | Exterior | Truck beds, ramps, shop floors | Imprinted surface raises slip resistance |
| Pressure treated | Exterior | Ground-contact builds, decks, sheds | Copper-based preservative; fasteners must be hot-dip galvanized or stainless |
| MR / moisture-resistant | MR resin | Bathroom vanities, humid interiors | Common in import 'BWP/MR' naming — BWP is boiling-water-proof MR grade |
The species behind the face veneer
On sanded and hardwood panels, the face species decides how the project looks and wears; the core decides how it behaves. These are the species you will actually meet on the rack:
| Species | Home turf | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Birch | Cabinet & furniture face | Tight, uniform grain; paints and stains cleanly; the default shop face veneer |
| Baltic birch | Premium casework, laser, jigs | 13+ plies in 18 mm, void-free edges — edges can be the finished look; 5×5 sheets |
| Maple | Hard-use cabinet faces | Dense and pale; takes paint poorly, takes wear well |
| Oak (red/white) | Stained furniture, flooring look | Open grain reads strongly under stain; white oak weathers better |
| Walnut | Premium dark furniture | Naturally dark brown; usually a thin face over a cheaper core |
| Cherry | Fine furniture | Warm tone that deepens with light exposure |
| Mahogany / meranti | Boatbuilding, exterior doors | Rot-resistant tradition; most 'mahogany' ply today is meranti/luan family |
| Poplar | Paint-grade faces & cores | Cheap, stable, bland — the paint-everything wood |
| Hickory | Impact-prone surfaces | Hardest common domestic face; rustic character marks |
| Alder | Rustic stained casework | Even, light grain that stains like cherry at lower cost |
| Cedar | Closet lining, weather exposure | Aromatic and naturally rot-resistant; soft, dents easily |
| Luan / lauan | Underlayment, cheap paneling | 1/8″–1/4″ meranti ply; warps easily, indoor utility only |
How to choose — the decision habit, not just the table
Working woodworkers choose panels with three questions in order, and the order prevents almost every bad purchase. First: where does the water go? Interior, incidental, or soaked — that picks the bond line (interior, Exposure 1, exterior) and it is non-negotiable. Second: who sees the face? Nothing, paint, or finish-grade grain — that picks the letter pair and the species. Third: what does it span? Support spacing and load pick the thickness, and span tables — not price — have the last word on structural panels.
Run those three answers and the matrix at the top of this page is simply the results, tabulated. A bathroom vanity floor box: water yes (Exposure 1 or marine), faces hidden (C fine), span tiny (3/4″). A garage feature wall in clear coat: water no (interior bond fine), faces everything (B or better, sanded), span = studs (1/4″ over solid backing or 5/8″ standing alone). The answers almost choose the panel themselves — which is the point of knowing the system rather than memorizing a product list.
When the choice is made and it becomes an order, the plywood calculator on the homepage prices the sheet count, the sheet sizes chart matches the panel to the right footprint (4×8 vs 5×5 Baltic birch matters here), and the calculator directory covers the fasteners, weight and cut layout that follow. Plywood grades and types explained in one page, wired straight into the tools that consume the decision.
Last updated: November 2026 · Published by the Plywood Calculator team · Grade and bond definitions per APA/PS 1 (Voluntary Product Standard for Construction and Industrial Plywood); span ratings per APA Rated Sheathing stamps.
Plywood grade & type FAQ
What is CDX plywood?
CDX is construction sheathing with a C-grade face, a D-grade back and X-rated exterior glue. The X does not mean the panel is waterproof or outdoor-safe — it means the adhesive line survives exposure during construction delays. Left exposed to weather for a season, CDX delaminates at the edges and the C/D faces roughen; used under siding, roofing or flooring, it is the cheapest panel that does the structural job. There is no furniture use for CDX: the D-face knotholes can reach 2½ inches and internal core voids will telegraph through any thin finish.
What is the difference between ACX and BCX plywood?
The face veneer only. ACX has an A-grade face — smooth, sanded, paint- or clear-coat ready — over a C back. BCX has a B face, which tolerates tight knots and football-shaped plugs but is not glass-smooth. Both carry exterior glue, so both survive incidental moisture. The practical decision is price versus finish: ACX for anything that will be painted to a furniture standard or clear-coated, BCX where a textured paint job or a hidden-but-dry face is fine.
Is marine-grade plywood waterproof?
No panel is waterproof by itself — wood absorbs water, and even the glue line only holds the plies together. 'Marine grade' means two things: the adhesive is fully exterior (boiling-water-proof, tested to soak/dry cycling), and the core is void-free so water cannot migrate through open internal gaps. US marine ply is typically Douglas fir or meranti to standards such as BS 1088. Water resistance in a finished project still comes from edge sealing, epoxy or paint — marine ply gives the coating a void-free substrate instead of fighting one.
What is the strongest plywood?
For structural stiffness, thicker is stronger — span ratings and thickness drive it far more than face letters. Among common panels, 18 mm Baltic birch is exceptionally stiff for its thickness because it carries 13 plies versus 7 in standard 3/4-inch construction ply, and film-faced formwork ply uses dense hardwood cores for the same reason. For screw-holding and impact, hardwood-faced cabinet ply beats softwood sheathing. 'Strongest for the application' is a span-and-thickness question — the span calculator on this site gives the deflection numbers by panel and support spacing.
Is plywood a hardwood or softwood?
Either — the panel type and the face species are separate decisions. Softwood plywood (Douglas fir, southern yellow pine, SPF) dominates construction sheathing; hardwood plywood (birch, maple, oak, poplar cores) serves cabinets and furniture. The botanical terms also do not equal hardness: balsa is a hardwood, and southern yellow pine is a softwood that out-screws some 'hardwood' poplar cores. Judge panels by face species, core construction and glue type, not the soft/hard label.
What is plywood made of, and how is it manufactured?
Plywood is an odd number of thin wood veneers glued with alternating grain directions — face, core, back, with each layer cross-laminated 90° to its neighbors. Mills steam or boil logs, peel them into continuous veneer ribbons on a lathe, clip and dry the sheets, lay up a stack with adhesive, then press the stack hot. Cross-lamination is the entire point: it equalizes wood's natural shrinkage in both directions, which is why a plywood panel stays flat where a solid board of the same width would cup.
What does the span rating stamped on plywood mean?
A two-number stamp like 32/16 gives maximum support spacing in inches: the first number is rafters or roof supports, the second is floor joists. A 32/16 panel can span 32 inches on a roof or 16 inches on a floor at standard loads; a 48/24 panel (Sturd-I-Floor) reaches 48-inch rafters or 24-inch joists. The stamp also carries the actual thickness — 23/32 where the label says '3/4-inch' — so it is worth reading the edge stamp before setting saw blade height or ordering screws.
What is pressure-treated plywood and when is it required?
Pressure-treated ply is impregnated with a copper-based preservative under vacuum, rated for above-ground or ground-contact exposure depending on the retention level. Use ground-contact rated (UC4A and up) anywhere the panel touches soil, stays wet, or vents poorly — shed floors, planter boxes, permanent forms. The copper corrodes plain steel: fasteners and hangers in contact must be hot-dip galvanized or stainless, and the panel cannot be glued with standard PVA adhesives. It is also not rated for direct food contact or aquarium use.
What is luan plywood good for?
Luan (lauan) is a cheap 1/8″–1/4″ meranti-family ply from Southeast Asia. Its legitimate jobs: 1/4″ underlayment under resilient flooring (where the flooring manufacturer permits it), dado-panel backs, bending laminations, and temporary protection. It warps with any humidity swing, holds screws poorly, and delaminates outdoors in one season — so it fails at every job sanded or marine ply is specified for. Treat it as a disposable interior material and it is excellent value.
Which plywood grade should I buy for painted cabinets?
Poplar-core ACX or A2 birch ply, 3/4″, painted. The A face takes primer level; the C back is hidden inside the carcass. If the interiors will be visible, UV-prefinished birch skips the topcoat entirely and Baltic birch offers the crispest painted edges. Spend one grade up on anything a visitor sees and one grade down on everything screwed behind — the classic cabinetmaker's split is A on doors and fronts, C on everything else.
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